Just Keep Swimming...

Much to Jon and my great joy, Gretchen has started watching and enjoying Disney movies.  The pure joy that comes from watching a classic childhood movie with your family on a rainy day coupled with watching your little girl discover it for the first time is pretty awesome.  To date, Gretchen's favorites are Finding Nemo, Cinderella, Snow White and Dumbo - though I'm pretty sure none of them can beat her unfailing loyalty to Dora the Explorer.  Her love of Nemo is reinforced by the plate and bowl set that Grammy brought her earlier this year, and in Gretchen's eyes, every fish or aquatic-type animal is somehow related to Nemo.

So, when we signed her up for swim lessons, we used this to our advantage.  "You're going to blow bubbles, just like Nemo!", "Let's go under the water, just like Nemo!", you see what I mean.  Not to say that Gretchen is at all frightened of water, she is thrilled to be in a pool, lake, ocean, whatever you've got - but she's not 100% convinced that she wants to do anything but play in the water - and one of our parenting requirements is that our children learn how to swim.

Finding a local pool that offered actual lessons to little ones was a bit challenging for me.  Last year we went to the Ocampo Wellness Club for most of the year, but the instructor that we loved (Luciana) had a baby and stopped teaching at the end of the year.  Also, though the club itself is quite nice, the pool and pool changing room could use some lovin'; the temperature of the pool and the air was either pretty cold or stifling hot, the cleanliness of the pool was questionable at times and the dressing rooms were small, awkward and tough to navigate with a toddler.

I looked at Club de Amigos, a popular option in the city, and decided against it.  First off, they refused to give me prices over the phone or email, I had to come in person.  I went in person only to be told that the classes were not accepting new students until September (this was in June), something that clearly could have been communicated over the phone and saved me a trip.  Then the prices were super premium.  Two strikes - I'm out.

Little swimmer ready for action!

Then I looked in our own backyard, so to speak, at the gym we've attended for year and I've used for pregnancy swimming, Megatlon.  I requested a trial class at the front desk and was given two, so we attended the Saturday group classes and then talked to the instructor, Cristina, about teaching semi-private/private classes during the week.  We arranged a time, and found a friend to take them with us, and now we gladly attend our semi-private swim time for an hour a week.

This was not without it's challenges (of course).  I'm still not sure what the classes cost - I've heard anything from a firm AR$470 per month (10% less if you have another student join the class) to AR$890 per month and the child needs to be a member of the gym.  What actually happened is that we were charged AR$260 for one month of classes, and since we've only paid for one month I have no idea what will happen in the future.

For all of the classes, including the two freebies, we needed to have swim caps (both of us), a swim diaper for little G and proper swim suits (should go without saying, but you never know).  Also, for members to use the pool you need to be checked by the on-site medic, who basically looks at your feet and signs a little card that says you're good to go.

Daddy and Gretchen finishing up class

The pool is decent.  Warm, but not grossly warm. Most importantly, clean.  There is always a lifeguard on duty (though they're usually chillin' in the corner with some friends) and there are designated lanes for slow, medium and fast swimmers there to swim laps.  I will say that in my lap swimming days, there are times when it is quite crowded - I've been told 2-3:00pm is the best time to go.

Not picture here are two baby pools (currently under renovation, should reopen this month) that are super shallow (like 60cm) and available almost all of the time to bring your little one for "open swim".  Gretchen and I have done this in the past, just gone and used their toys to hang out in the pool area and burn off energy for awhile, no one has ever been there to crowd us.  The locker room showers leave a little to be desired, but there is a coat check for your things while at class and plenty of space.  A huge downfall for me is the difficulty with getting in and out of the gym with a stroller - it's possible but really difficult to manage.

So, as Dori would say, "Just keep swimming, just keep swimming, just keep swimming, swimming..." and hopefully we'll have our own little fish before we know it!

El Baqueano

El Baqueano 

Address: Chile Nº 495 esquina Bolivar

Phone: 4342-0802

This gem of a restaurant located in San Telmo, a barrio in the city where we rarely get to for dinner. It's a shame too, because this is a fantastic place to eat.

Reservations are a must and they don't print menus.  The inside is modestly decorated but comfortable with a large bar - though it doesn't look like the bar seats are used much. There is a set "degustacion" that changes every 3 months or so, presented on a chalkboard to each table as you sit down.  The set menu has eight steps for AR$230 with the three supplemental steps available for an additional price per dish.

There is also the wine pairing available for an additional AR$135, we skipped this option but it was an ample amount of wine for the price.

The meal started with a choice of freshly baked oregano or whole grain bread along with an olive oil tasting.  I can't pretend that my pallet is refined enough to know the difference between the oils, but they were all good with bread and we ate all of them and asked for seconds.

The first step off of the menu started a theme that continued through the meal.  Degustacion de papas was potatoes served a few different ways.  There were mashed, roasted, fried and delicious.

Each step was completely different.  We enjoyed llama, shrimp, deer, beets and all of them made with ingredients from Argentina.  It helped that they were all quite pretty to look at too.

Beets served multiple ways, delicious just like the potatoes, but there is something about pureed beets that makes me think of the opening credits to Dexter.

I also appreciate a pre-dessert palate cleanser.  It doesn't take away from the dessert, but gives you something sweet prior to the real deal.  This particular course had a great fruit sorbet, topped with peppercorns, a strange and surprisingly solid pairing.

For the next degustacion we had apples.  This time there were more ways than I thought possible to prepare apples on the plate; a fried apple chip, pureed apples, thinly sliced "raw" apples, an apple sorbet, some sort of apple gelatin surrounded by a cold apple broth.  Good, clean, fresh except the gelatin, which is never a good idea in my mind.

The final course, the real dessert was a ying/yang chocolate dish.  The chocolate was rich and tasty, and the presentation was cool, the waitress poured the two sauces at the table, but the white chocolate was a miss.  It was served cold while the dark chocolate was served hot, which added to the fact that in contrast there was no flavor to the white chocolate - it was more milk-y than dessert-y.  Don't get me wrong, I ate the whole thing, but that would be my response if anyone ever asked :).

This was a great meal, quiet atmosphere and interesting food all at a decent price here in Buenos Aires.  It also gives me more reason to return to San Telmo, a place I rarely go after dark.  Our next visitors looking for a fun place to eat should keep this one in mind!  We will certainly be back.

Baby #2 Shipment

Jon's company will pay for a one-time shipment of goods sent from the US via air, all you need to do is have a baby.  Luckily, we are on our second opportunity for a shipment - though I promise that has nothing very little to do with our decision to have another child.

This is a rare opportunity to bring heavy or oddly shaped items to Argentina, and though many of them are baby related, quite a few things are just items that are inconvenient to get on an airplane.

So, what do buy when you have ~100 square feet to fill? Here is our wish list:

• Kirkland's Baby Wipes
• A new rug for Gretchen's room - her rug is going to the new baby's room
• Photos made into canvas wall art (I went bananas on CanvasOnDemand.com)
• Large quantities of: shampoo, conditioner, face wash, bath wash, lotion, baby bath, deodorant, vitamins.  All items with which we are brand-loyal.
• Medications Mucinex, baby/infant pain relievers, pregnancy vitamins, NyQuil. (In all honesty, we're not that infirm, it's just nice to have the stuff you know when you're feeling crappy)
• Infant Feeding items: breast milk storage bags, nursing pads (like a zillion of them), formula containers
• This amazing contraption by Infantino that allows you to make your own baby squeezy pouches. Gretchen lived on these for months and I have been begging them off of visitors ever since.  No more!  I'm making them on my own, baby!
• The beautiful hummingbird painting that my in-laws gave me for my 30th birthday.  Now, at 32, it hangs proudly in our bedroom.
• An incredible wooden table that Jon's Dad handmade for Gretchen.  It even has her name engraved on it, which she "reads" daily.  
• A gorgeous crystal wine decanter that my parents gave us.  I'm still in shock that it didn't break, and I'm ready to decant wine like a pro in a few months....
• Baby clothes for the first 6 months.  I wish I was joking, but clothes in Argentina are known for their high prices and poor quality so we went bonanza in Carters and Target.  
• Accessories for our newly purchased City Versa stroller.  We're hoping to eliminate the need for a double, because honestly, they just don't fit anywhere in the city (including in our elevator).
• The beanbag chair pictured below.  So fun!

The fact that we had space to fill meant that we also sent things like Craisins, dried mangos, Popchips, pine nuts, handsoap, razorblades, and other comforts of home.  We filled every square inch of that container and would do it again if given the chance.  As long as that chance didn't involve having another baby here, at 32 weeks pregnant, I can't even contemplate that future...

So, for anyone wondering what you miss when living abroad, here is a window into our most-wanted items. For those that have visited us, you already know this because you've probably filled your suitcases with some or many of these items already - and we thank you profusely for that!  You never know how good you have it, with Amazon 2-day delivery and a Target on every corner, until it's not available anymore!

Pregnant Lady Priority

There are countless things that make living in Argentina more complicated.  The language.  The unpredictability.  The economic unrest.  The multiple stops needed to accomplish the same tasks as one trip to Target. 

One thing that seems (to me) to be easier to be pregnant here in Argentina.  Everyone here loves a pregnant lady, almost as much as they love a baby.  

Everywhere you go, you are given priority.  Start with parking.  Right behind the handicapped spaces, there are reserved expecting mother spots.  Not just at Babies-R-Us style places - malls, grocery stores, virtually everywhere that has a parking lot provides places for expecting moms.  It's fantastic.

Next there are priority lines.

Banks.
Airports.
Money Exchanges.
ATMs.
Grocery stores.

They all have a priority line for those expecting (and at times this includes families with young children).  Not the kind of line where if you use it everyone in the store glares hatefully your way.  It's the kind of line where people go out of their way to usher you to the front and clear the way when you walk through.

People stop me on the street and ask when I'm due.  They stay after class to ask if my doctor is OK with me taking spin. They give me their seat on the bus, hail taxis on my behalf, hold the door for me (with the exception of my doorman) and will mow others down to pick up something that I have dropped on the ground.

I gratefully accept all help, and walk to the front of all lines, knowing that as soon as the baby is born all of these favors go away.

I just wanted to take a moment to thank the lovely people of Argentina for making pregnancy so comfortable, even if everything else is a bit more complex.

One Table with Hernan Gipponi

 As I alluded to in my previous post, last week we tried a different, semi-closed restaurant while Ted and Kyra were in town.  We first heard the name Hernan Gipponi when he partnered with our friend Chef Mun last month to host a joint dinner in Buenos Aires.  After that, Pick Up The Fork wrote a thorough post regarding the entire experience, which was enough to make me pick up the phone and make a reservation.  The restaurant is in the hotel Fierro in Palermo (Soler 5862, Palermo, 3220-6820), reservations are required, and the One Table concept is only available on Monday nights.  If you are able to jump through those hoops, clear your calendar for Mondays and jump on in.

As expected, there is one, joined table in the restaurant with 14 seats, so you'll be sitting with anyone else who has a reservation that night. We were hoping for a local experience with a local chef for our visitors, hilariously, there was only one Argentine at the table.  And he is married to an American.  Chef Hernan seemed slightly uneasy by the 100% English speaking dinner, and he cut some of his food descriptions a bit short - I think for fear that we weren't all keeping up.

The restaurant is small, but perfectly decorated. One wall has a large window to see right into the kitchen action.  The opposite wall has one of the coolest photography collages I have ever seen. Black and white, close-up and long distance, they are all food related photos - a mix of ingredients, cooking utensils, and food preparation methods that set the mood for the rest of the evening.  This brilliant idea may make it's way into my home someday...

We were met at the restaurant door by an English speaking hostess that offered us a bloody mary while we waited for the rest of the guests - and after seeing my super-baby-belly, immediately asked if I wanted a virgin version.  Strangely enough, I received a virgin bloody mary while everyone else received some sort of refreshing grapefruit-lime-vodka-spritzer garnished with either a sage leaf or bay leaf that I was told was very good.

We were served a panko-breaded shrimp in tzatziki sauce as we waited to sit down, and then again once we were seated. The shrimp was crispy and hot, the sauce was tangy and citric but it was one of the less memorable dishes of the night - not the one I would choose to offer twice.

The set table has some great touches. Handwritten menus (written by the chef) both in English and Spanish, pristine kitchen towels that matched the menu colors which served as napkins, bread served in small burlap sacks and condiments like olive oil, Patagonian sea salt, pickled turnips and cucumbers available for all to share.  

The second tapa course was a smoked salmon dish served with a sour-cream-based-creme-fraise-style sauce and a thinly shaved fennel salad. There was one dish for every two diners, and ours was gone in a matter of minutes. I forget how good fennel is when someone knows what they're doing, for me it always tastes like licorice.

The next tapa was steak tartar with crispy onion rings served with a side of guacamole.  The combination itself is interesting, but everything went together with a great mix of textures, flavors and temperatures.

Another nice service note, the staff brought me a plate of tiny empanadas during these courses, again due to the pregnancy.  I enjoyed the garnishes and sides on both of these dishes, but only taste-tested the proteins themselves.  Por las dudas...

So, here's where it got a little more interesting for me.  Something I have never seen on a menu, veal heart.  It looks and tastes just like beef, not surprising I guess - since it is beef, but the concept just messed with my mind for this course.  It was served with oversized lima beans and a salad of pickled items, both of which added to the texture of the dish but remained neutral with regard to flavor.

I really enjoyed the fact that the chef was visible throughout our meal, and personally served a few of the courses.  The first appearance he made for the presentation of a dish was the final tapa, a soft-boiled egg served over a bed of hummus with veal broth poured by Hernan himself.  Cool presentation and I loved the serving dishes - though submerging hummus in broth was a mix of items that I would have done without. The dish was flavorful and interesting - and especially for those that love a yolk-y egg.

On to the main dishes.  That's right - we were still at appetizers until now.  This was a huge plus in the evening, there were so many dishes to try, each one more interesting and creative than the other and there was enough food to leave everyone satisfied.

The catch of the day was linguado (sole, for all of us English speakers...) and it was cooked perfectly.  Flaky, moist and served over fresh veggies - delicious.

Next up, a dish called Bomba Rice Abanda whose description had me lost in translation. Basically, it is a rice and seafood dish, plated at the table and served with aioli sauce on the side.  I have to say, this dish could have been skipped.  In contrast to the other courses, this one lacked flavor and took up lots of valuable real estate with the amount of rice.  Considering how much food was served, I left space for the other dishes that had more wow factor for me.

Then came the rabbit.  Yep, we had Peter Cottontail and his baby cow friend in the same night. 

The chef, again, came out to wow the table - this time he cooked the meal right in front of us. He took rabbit tenderloins (or the equivalent of, I'm not up to speed on my rabbit meat cuts) and placed them on a fire-hot griddle in the middle of the table.  He then plated the meat on a spiced carrot puree with a handful of steamed vegetables.

This dish was outstanding.  The meat was cooked perfectly, the vegetables were light and al dente. A great course all around.

One of the smartest moves of the evening was to end with a light and fresh dessert.  After all of this food, something like a chocolate volcano or a dulce de leche stuffed crepe is far too heavy (though don't misunderstand, I would scarf down almost any dessert in its entirety).  The mixture of tangerine sherbert, fresh strawberries and what the chef refers to as a vanilla cloud was perfect.

Of the other guests around the table, there were at least three people referring to the blog posts they were going to write on their experience at One Table, so there are sure to be lots of opinions available soon.  In my opinion, this was a great place to take guests, a unique dining experience - even in a city full of surprises - and you should absolutely jump at the opportunity to spend a Monday night at One Table.