Carmelo, Uruguay

Uruguay is the easiest country to travel to from Buenos Aires. Sure, you could fly, but why would you when there are ferries that leave every few hours and take between 1 - 3 hours to arrive at either Colonia or Montevideo. I took this trip back in 2010 with my mom and one of her friends, and way back four years ago when I was a wee young blogger, I wrote virtually nothing helpful in the post. I will say this - not much has changed in the trip except for the price, which was somewhere around US$82 in 2010 and is now closer to US$200 if you have a DNI and higher priced plus a 35% surcharge if you don't. Ouch! These prices vary depending on the day, time and destination of your departure, and there are other options than the company that we used, Buquebus, but they are all far more expensive than a few years ago.

The trip does have it's advantages, there is very little waiting in the terminal, easy on and off the ship, and the best part for us is that we were able to take our car - which also means no unpacking the items from the car - because you drive the car right onto the boat. Major bonus. Also, the Buquebus terminal is easy to get to, located at the top of Puerto Madero, near Retiro Station.

We got to the terminal an hour before our ship was to sail, and this was perfect timing. We passed seamlessly through immigration (although it is a quick trip, you need full international travel documents to get to the other side. If you have DNIs, these are sufficient to travel to Uruguay) and while the kids and I walked onto the boat, Jon headed back down to the parking area to drive the car into the cargo hold. We brought our stroller onto the boat, which was nice because we didn't have a seat for Alex, but pretty bulky and awkward. The seats will remind you of being in an airplane, though the on/off ease will make you glad you didn't fly.

After landing in Colonia, we drove west an hour and a few minutes to the little port town of Carmelo. I'm not totally sure that it has a real port, but there is water access and we saw a couple little speed boats over the course of the weekend.

We splurged this weekend and stayed at the Four Seasons resort in Carmelo. The property itself was gorgeous, with more the feeling of a forest lodge than a hotel, but the real shining star was the pool. This pool is massive, heated with two large shallow ends for children. Everything about the pool is great, the chairs, the flavored ice water they bring you while you sunbathe, the noodles and pool toys they offer. There is a restaurant located on the pool deck, so you can eat and drink while you swim, though the food is overpriced (not surprising with the Four Seasons name and the fact that there is no competition anywhere nearby) and not anything to write home about. But you don't have to leave the pool. Which you will never want to do.

Per our usual, it rained a couple of the days we were in Uruguay, fear not, they have a kid's club that our daughter adored (if they kids are 4+ years you can leave them along at the kid's club, we stayed with Gretchen and had fun together), a gym with all of the equipment you could ever need, a spa and a game room to pass the time.

The other highlight of the property we discovered on our last day. The beach. There is a tiny beach on the pretty gross, brown Rio Negro, though I would not actually enter the water, this turned out to be Gretchen's favorite spot. You can throw rocks into the water All. Day. Long.

Daddy was a master rock finder/thrower.

Mommy did alright too. Gretchen showed me how fun it was to throw many rocks in at one time.

Even our little man had fun. This one is just happy to be along for the ride, such an easy, smily precious little guy.

And he is enamored with his Daddy. Look at this face of pure joy!

The hotel property is filled with walking trails through the woods, which are filled with these cool birch trees. They shed their bark and are stark white - creating a really neat look to the forest.

There are number of restaurants both at the main hotel building and speckled throughout the greater overall property (which is very large and includes a small neighborhood and a whole map of roads - none of which seem to be named). The main hotel restaurant is good, though any of the Four Seasons owned restaurants that we drove to were pretty mediocre. The highlight of our eating experience was at a restaurant and bodega called Campo Tinto. This restaurant has a beautiful view, good tasting wines in a quaint, friendly atmosphere. The food was fine, again nothing spectacular, but the setting, wine and ambiance made it worth a visit.

It was a quick trip, and as it turns out, it will be our last while living in Argentina. Shortly after this getaway weekend, we found out that we are quickly moving back to the US, making me so glad that we took this and all of the multiple travel opportunities that we did. All good things must come to an end, and though it has been an amazing experience in Argentina, it is time to come home. More on how to leave Argentina in the weeks to come.

Baby Paperwork: CUIL numbers

In order to have a bank account, get a credit card, own a car, or receive any Social Security benefits in Argentina, you must have something called a CUIL (Código Único de Identificación Laboral). This is a number that includes your DNI (Documento Nacional de Identidad) with two additional digits in front and one digit added at the end.

Jon and I got our CUILs through Jon's company almost immediately after we arrived in Argentina. Until we had a CUIL, Jon couldn't get paid, and we had to (pretty much) store all of our cash under a mattress in our rental apartment, so this was priority #1. After that, we haven't given much thought to this number, we rarely use them, and now that everything has been set up, hardly anyone ever needs the number.

That is, until we recently tired to book a trip to Uruguay on the Buquebus ferry. The ticketing agent at Buquebus informed me that our children were not able to travel internationally until they each had their own CUIL numbers. This was a mere five days after returning from Brazil - a trip where no one needed, or even mentioned a CUIL - though when I brought this up to the agent, he shrugged and told me that we must have broken the law. I was told that we either got the kids a CUIL number, or find another way to Uruguay. Granted, I wasn't so dead-set on getting across the river, but I figured that if this was a potential problem for future travel, we may as well get the kids their CUIL numbers.

In my research into how to get the CUIL numbers issued, I found that AFIP (the larger government organization that issues CUIL numbers) has recently issued a notification that states CUILs are no longer required for children. Clearly, Buquebus has not gotten this memo - and didn't care that I brought it to their attention. Also, laws change so quickly in this country that no one can keep the current status straight, so I wasn't going to press the issue.

First, if you may already have a CUIL, you can check your number via the ANSES website. If you don't have a CUIL, read on:

Obtaining a CUIL is pretty easy, assuming you have the correct paperwork. You need to apply in person at an ANSES office. The office closest to me is located on Cordoba 1118 (esq. Cerrito) and be aware that these offices take liberal leave for holidays, days surrounding holidays and when they are open, they are open from 8:00am - 2:00pm. You don't need an appointment, but arriving early is an advantage as there always seem to be lots of people in need of the office (similar to the DMV or Social Security Offices in the US). I arrived at 8am and walked right in. You start at a reception desk where they ask why you have come and verify that you have all of the right documents. For a CUIL you need:

• Parent's DNI (and a copy)
• Child's DNI (and a copy)
• Child's Partida de Nacimiento (and a copy)

Once you have proved that you're prepared, you get a number and wait until you're called. For me, this was 25 minutes. Once called, I sat and waited for each document to be painstakingly analyzed, and at the end of the process, I had a CUIL for each of my children. All included, the process took about an hour. Luckily, the kids didn't need to be with me to have the CUIL issued, so it was easy in and out.

Not the most exciting day of my life, but at least we can rest assured that our Argentinean children can successfully apply for Social Security benefits if they happen to be living in Argentina when they retire. Maybe. If the funds are still around (snicker, snicker...).

Pao de Acucar: Sugarloaf Mountain

Our last full day in Rio was spent visiting Sugarloaf, or Pao de Acucar as it is called in Portuguese. The name derives from the shape of the mountain, which is similar to the traditional shape of refined loaf sugar - which is how sugar was sold before the little cubes came to be.

Since we did alright we decided to forego the actual tour and cab it to the base of Sugarloaf mountain, a great decision considering the difference in cost and the total amount of time that we spent looking around. It seems that even the most incredible views don't keep a 2-year-old entertained for long.

There are actually two hills involved in the journey to the top, and two trolly car lines. A ticket includes passage all the way to the top and back, at a cost of $53 real for adults, $26 for children 6 - 12 years and free for those under 6.

First stop is Morro de Urca. The trolly cars are like space-aged bubbles that have 360 degree views (windows on all sides) and feel quite safe, even for the height-adverse traveler. The trip up lasts less than two minutes, and takes you 220 meters (~720 feet) up. Trams leave once every 20 minutes and the day we went there was no line to purchase tickets or to board the trolly.

At this first stop there are some great views, a little area for shopping or getting something to eat, and they have retired trolly cars on display with a bit of information from when they were used. For example, these death cars were used from 1912 until 1972. Seriously!? I'm not sure who these adventurous folks were in 1912, but it certainly wouldn't have been me.

View from the first mountain. Pretty great view of some of the beaches and the way the city is built up into the landscape:

Also, an amazing perspective of plans landing at the regional airport in Rio. There were quite a few planes that passed through while we were there, and each time the entire group of tourists stopped to shoot pictures like this one. Kind of wild to see the plane so close up while in the air.

Also seen at a great angle is the Christ the Redeemer statue. This photo, again as with the day we visited the Redeemer, looks ominous with the swirly clouds, but the statue definitely commands an audience.

The second half of the tram takes you from the top of Morro de Urca to the top of Pao de Acucar, almost 400 meters (~1,300 feet). This was where I got really nervous. Again, the trip is short, the ride is smooth and feel secure - but there is something about riding in a bubble hanging by a wire 1,000 feet above the ground that just didn't sit well with me.

We all made it to the top without incident. I'm inching my way closer to the edge here to take a picture with the kiddos. Gretchen thinks it's hilarious that I'm so nervous, and I'm basically clutching onto her in terror.

Some nice tourists offered to take a full family shot for us - our only family shot of the vacation - overlooking more of the beautiful beaches surrounding Rio.

Rio was a fantastic trip, I am so glad that we went. It was more expensive than anywhere else we have visited in South America, especially around the holidays, but I would absolutely go back and certainly recommend it as an easy trip from Buenos Aires. The beaches were far nicer than anything we've seen in Argentina though the water was rough for anyone that is not a strong swimmer. Next time, prior to visiting Brazil, I would take a crash course in Portuguese - our Spanish was of little to no help.

Obrigada, Brazil! We'll be back!

2013 Year in Review

I missed my opportunity to do a review for 2012 so I need to interrupt the Brazil posts to give a little recap to 2013.

In short, I cannot believe that a whole year has gone by. It started with a very fast beginning to an incredibly slow middle and ended in a flash. Thus is a year with a pregnancy/new baby.

We have now lived in Argentina for over four years. We have been married five and a half years. Our family has doubled in size. Our belongings have doubled in size (or somewhere close, we'll find out whenever we pack up to move next). We are now, officially, the longest duration expats in Argentina with Jon's company.

The most important point in our year was when this little man joined our family:

He was calm, even in the moments after birth

The most tranquilo two guys I know

It took a little while, but she has gotten used to her "baby"

Alex has brought us joy and light, and every day I marvel at what an amazing little baby he is. It took a few (long) weeks, but Gretchen now seems to have fully embraced having a baby brother. Jon and I now share the joyful anticipation for our children to grow up as siblings. Playing together, entertaining each other, fighting for the same toys and lobbying for attention - all of the good and bad about having brothers and sisters that makes for fun family stories and helps you bond as a family unit. This was a very important part of both of our lives growing up moving, now we can offer to our kids as well.

Though we had some wonderful highs, 2013 was also a year of farewells. We said hasta la proxima to a number of our closest friends, an inevitability when living abroad, but difficult nonetheless.

We cannot wait to live close to these friends again.

Gretchen and Talia were separated for a few months, then caught up again on a trip to the US where we all reunited in Houston and they bonded over their shared love for Dora, drinking juice and Sapo Pepe.

Watching Dora the Explorer, a favorite pasttime

These two were (and will be again) inseparable!

Through the goodbyes, we also welcomed a number of visits from friends and family.

In March, Gretchen was doused in a week of complete lovin' by her pseudo-big-sister Genna and the rest of the Marvin clan. She followed little Teddy around like a pull toy. We joked about how they could all be siblings with their super-blue eyes and mega-blond hair. We had an absolute blast with this wonderful family.

Grammy made her 6th appearance in Argentina and Papa Mas his 4th, Gran and Poppa came back for the 6th time, and their visits this year were especially helpful since I was either pregnant or we had just had a new baby and loved the extra help.

Bathtime fun with Grammy

Taking a ride with Papa Mas

Three generations of Hokie fans

6th time's the charm - we finally visit the Rosedal with Gran and Poppa

Poppa's newest admirer

Resting on the Tigre boat with Gran

The end of 2013 also brings with it the relative certainty that we will be leaving Argentina in 2014. Without an exact date or location, we have some flexibility to do all of the "last minute" things we want to do in the country - while not being stressed by the actual work of moving. On the other hand, we are in a holding pattern until we receive news. No, we haven't heard anything. No, we don't know when we're leaving. We don't know around when. We just have to wait and see - and patience is not a virtue that either Jon or I claim to have.

It's nice to have some time to get to know our family of four before another big change is upon us. Watching each member of our family adjust to a new role is a great way to bid farewell to 2013. So for now we just sit still...

 Though before we know it, we'll be on the move again!

Happy New Year to all! Sending love from Argentina as we enjoy our last 100+ degree January for the foreseeable future!

Jardim Botanico

We asked friends for recommendations on things to do in Rio before we left, and one item kept coming up that I didn't expect - visit the Botanical Gardens. We have been in Buenos Aires for over four years and have not yet been the Botanical Gardens here so this was not immediately on the top of our list - but the day was cloudy and we had a brunch recommendation to add to the morning, so the day was ripe for a garden trip!

We went on a Sunday, which is when Escola do Pao offers brunch. Our hotel front desk made us a 9:00am reservation and we took the under 10 minute cab ride to be some of the first ones there. This family owned restaurant is known for its bread and pastries, and their brunch spotlights these items. The restaurant is a quaint place with some interesting kitchen items and pastries on sale. There are two floors of dining space with a third floor dedicated to bathrooms (which we visited three times with our little miss). 

They have an a la carte menu, but we ordered the complete brunch for Jon and I - and Gretchen ate off our plates for no additional cost. I will say that the brunch was tasty and we left full, but the meal was very bread and cheese heavy and I don't remember a single protein on the table.

In true Brazilian style, they had lots of juices; orange juice, strawberry smoothie, and papaya pulp. Along with lots of cheesy bread, jams, creamy pudding items and some sort of tapioca pudding item at the end that came in coconut, raspberry or vanilla flavors.

 After brunch we walked on over to the Jardim Botanico, which is only 3 blocks down on the same street as Escola do Pao. I couldn't get a true answer as to where the gardens entrance was - but you walk out of the restaurant, take a right, walk three blocks and the entrance is on the left.

Alex was beyond excited about visiting the gardens.

Happiest. Child. Ever.

The gardens were fantastic! A beautiful respite in the middle of city life, and the tallest palm trees I have ever seen.

Gretchen was not thrilled about walking around the gardens until we learned that there was a playground somewhere in the gardens. After that, she was all smiles. This made for some of the best pictures we've gotten together in a very long time!

I can't believe what a big girl she has become!

The playground was pretty great! There is a little food court along with bathrooms for adults, and one specifically designated for kids. There is even a guard to make sure that kids don't get to rough, big kids don't play on the little kid equipment and that no one feeds the animals. The equipment was clean, in good repair, and it was a great oasis for a little girl that didn't want to walk around anymore.

 Once we made it to the playground, we were visited by some special guests that clearly take advantage of those willing to break the rules and feed them some extras.

There were lots of little monkeys running around in the trees above, waiting for food from the little ones below.

Just when I thought the monkey viewing was the wildlife highlight of the day - out came the toucans! Colorful, beautiful, and flying around the treetops like we were in the middle of the jungle. Which, I guess, was not far from the truth.

And then, of course, is the best little monkey of all.  She ran around the playground, sliding, climbing and horsing around until it was time to get back to the hotel for a little snooze. Not bad for a cloudy day in paradise.